Solid Granny Square Pattern for Pixel Crochet (Right-Handed Version)

This is the Red-Handed version of my Solid Granny Square Pattern for Pixel Crochet (Left-Handed Version here). I can't crochet right-handed, so I just flipped all my pictures, and here you have it.

In Pixel Crochet each pixel is represented by a crocheted square. Then you join all your squares together to create your, simply put, pixel awesomeness, which can take the form of a blanket, a rug, or whatever you want.

This Solid Granny Square pattern comes pretty darn close to a hole-less cutie with sharp corners. I call it "The Pixel Crochet Square," a mouthful...but, whatever. Call it "pixel," for short.

The Pixel Crochet Square (Right-Handed Version)

You will need:

• Yarn (I used worsted weight)
• Crochet hook (I used size 6.00 mm or "J")
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

I use Red Heart Super Saver yarn on my Pixel Crochet projects (lynch me if you want to). I find that size "J" (6.0 mm) gives me the best results with this yarn, with just the right tension. However, the "J" hook tends to be too thick for my taste when I use it with other softer worsted weight yarns. So, try this pattern with different combinations of hook sizes and types of worsted weight yarn to find the one that works best for your pixelation journey.

Round 1

Step 1:
Make magic ring and lock it with a stitch.

Step 2:
Ch 2 (counts as 1 dc), work 2 dc into ring, ch 1.

Step 3:
Work 3 dc into ring, ch 1. Repeat twice.

Step 4:
Pull tail to close the magic ring. Join to top of beg ch-2 with a sl st.

Each side has a cluster with 3 dc each, separated by ch-1 spaces.

Round 2

Step 5:
Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), 1 dc on same st as join.

Step 6:
Work 1 dc in the middle st of the cluster, then 2 dc in last st of the cluster.

Step 7:
Into the ch-1 space: work 1 tr, ch 1, 1tr.

Step 8:
Work 2 dc in first st of the next cluster, then 1 dc in the middle st of the cluster, then 2 dc in last st of the cluster.

Step 9:
Repeat step 7, step 8, and finish the round with a last repeat of step 7.

If this is your last round, DO NOT JOIN just yet. Go to the "Finishing Off" section. Else, join to top of beg ch-3 with a sl st.

Up to this point, each side has a cluster that begins with 1 tr, followed by 5 dc, and ends with 1 tr. The clusters are separated by ch-1 spaces.

The square size with two rounds is about 3 in (before blocking).

Additional Rounds:

Step 10:
First cluster of all subsequent rounds: start with a ch-3, work 1 dc in the same st as join, then work 1 dc in all sts before the last st of the cluster, then work 2 dc in the last st of the cluster.

Step 11:
Into the ch-1 space: work 1 tr, ch 1, 1tr. (Same as Step 7).

Step 12:
Remaining clusters of all subsequent rounds: work 2 dc in first st of the cluster, then work 1 dc in all sts before the last st of the cluster, then work 2 dc in the last st of the cluster.

Step 13:
Repeat step 11, step 12, and finish the round with a last repeat of step 11.

When you finish your last round, DO NOT JOIN just yet.

Finishing Off:

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail about 3 in long.

Pull the tail up through the stitch.

Thread a tapestry needle with the tail. Skip the top of beg ch-3 and create a joining stitch on the next st as follows:

Insert the tapestry needle under both loops of the st and draw the yarn through.

Next, insert the tapestry needle in between the loops, from front to back, of the last stitch worked (which is a ch-1, btw) and draw the yarn through.

Weave in the tails and cut.

Now make as many "pixels" as you need :) I'll soon post projects I've made using this pattern.

Don't forget to show me your creations!

XOXO